Instructions: Picture yourself in Greece. Youre sitting on a balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, sipping ouzo (a licorice-flavored brandy) when a waiter plops down a dish of flaky phyllo triangles with artichoke hearts dressed with a Bechamel sauce.

The air is pleasant, so you opt for another round. This time, youre presented with a small bowl of meaty Kalamata olives and octopus pickled with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and oregano. Each bite makes it easy to think about postponing dinner, or canceling it completely.

These are examples of mezedes, small portions of food that complement (and take the edge off) ouzo and wine. They fall somewhere between hors douevres and appetizers, and can be anything from small servings of stew to breaded and fried cheeses. Dips and spreads, such as hummus (pureed chickpeas), tzatziki (yogurt, cucumbers, and garlic) and small keftedakia (baked or fried meatballs) are also a favorite meze.

Salads and vegetables are also popular choices for mezedes, and in Greece they adhere pretty strictly to the seasons. There is red cabbage salad in winter, sauteed and grilled mushrooms in the fall, and classic, juicy Mediterranean tomatoes in the summertime. The Greeks are also very adept at pickling.

In their homeland, Mezedes are not thought of as appetizers, in as much as they do not necessarily precede a meal. But as flexible as they are, mezedes can easily be served as a first course. Incorporating salads, stews, and hot snacks, they offer wonderful variety and can complement a meal without being filling.

Today, when an appetizer portion can often serve three and leave your appetite questioning another course, mezedes are dishes upon which to build a meal. God bless them for that.

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