Instructions: Around the Arabian Gulf, highly spiced food is still common: recipes from the region call for complex spice blends, often with chilies. Enthusiasm for rich spicing passes to North Africa, to Ethiopia and the countries of the Magreb (Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia), where food is spiced with pepper, cubebs, cumin, caraway, cinnamon and cassia, ginger and saffron.

Chilies and mild peppers are common too, but not all the food is ferociously hot; many Moroccan dishes are quite delicate and subtle in their flavoring. Further south, in both East and West Africa, chilies are the dominant flavoring. Elsewhere in the Middle East, subtle spicing prevails in the Arab countries, Iran and Turkey.

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