Instructions: Americans today are obsessed with suspicious grainy powders.

The same was true 100 years ago. Except that those mysterious granules werent anthrax. And not deadly in the least.

No, the turn-of-the-century obsession was called Jell-O - innocuous-looking sugar dust that could be magically transformed into a wiggly treat that became Americas most famous dessert.

Who could have guessed that a little box of powder - essentially the byproduct of boiled cow parts - would wind up a national icon, found in 72 percent of American pantries? With 10 boxes sold every second, Jell-O is among the countrys most widespread food staples. and yet, how much do we know about the origins of this wobbly matter that has such a firm hold on our pop culture? Very little, until now.

Author Carolyn Wyman has written "Jell-O: A Biography"

(Harvest-Harcourt, $15), the definitive look at the history and cultural significance of this sweet, colorful food-as-plaything known to every child in the country (as well as anyone who has ever had to stay in a hospital).

Since Sept. 11, Americans have been turning to comfort foods - foods that make us smile and remind us of less complicated times. Jell-O is on every list.

"Having a cranberry Jell-O mold at Thanksgiving is almost a patriotic duty," said Wyman, a junk-food expert.

One of Americas first processed foods, Jell-O was sweet, cheap and pretty.

It was funny. It was fascinating. It had a personality. Invented in 1897, Jell-O - unlike rival Knox - was flavored and sweetened and needed only boiling water to activate it.

Wymans "Jell-O" book (which follows her examination of another food classic, "Spam: A Biography") also examines our deep and lasting attachment to Americas favorite edible toy.

We talked to Wyman about her overall Jell-O thoughts.

Q: Tell the truth: Do you actually like Jell-O?

A: Yes, I do. I like it most as a salad, because that gives you the opportunity of having two desserts in a single meal.

Q: Explain its popularity.

A: Its so adaptable - moldable, if you will. Because of the way it turns from liquid to solid, you can turn it into anything you want. It is the medium of expression for the average American chef.

Q: Were talking basically about boiled, flavored and colored animal skins, which isnt what most people consider when they think of Jell-O.

A: Probably not. You wouldnt want to. People dont like thinking of animal byproducts in their desserts.

Q: Is there a downside to Jell-O? Any evil lurking in there? Whats the worst thing about it?

A: Probably, what its made of. Gelatin could be made from old shoes and handbags if theyre properly pretreated.

Q: Does gelatin really improve the strength of your fingernails?

A: Well, no. The nutritional claims were that Jell-O was supposed to make nails strong and make your hair grow long. For years, people believed that. The claims continued. They said Jell-O would coagulate blood, so they gave it to women during childbirth. They gave it to people who needed protein.

But nutritionists have discovered that we cant absorb the proteins in Jell-O because its missing essential amino acids.

Q: Can you make your own Jell-O desserts without Jell-O?

A: Yes, you use Knox (gelatin) and different kinds of flavoring and fruit.

You can make jalapeno gelatin. In Canada, in the 60s, Jell-O tried fantasy flavors like bubble gum and cinnamon.

Q: I miss Jell-O 1-2-3. What happened to that?

A: They sold it for the last time in 1996. It was originally introduced in 69. It was discontinued and they brought it back in 89. I include a recipe for it (in the book). Its not quite 1-2-3; its more like 1-2. It makes two layers.

It had the Cool Whip already built in on top - the chiffon thing and the Jell-O.

If everyone loved it, though, they wouldnt have gotten rid of it - twice.

Q: Youve done Spam and now Jell-O. Whats the next iconic food youre going to tackle?

A: Im not sure theres another supermarket food product that could stand this kind of exhaustive treatment. Even Oreos, you could do something, but not 160 pages. Theres Campbell Soup, but its a little too boring. It doesnt make you smile like Spam and Jell-O.

You talk about Jell-O and Spam and you get into a good mood. It makes you smile.

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