Instructions: "Wine tends to toughen vegetables," says cookbook author Anne Willan. Vegetables also are quite often acidic themselves, and so dont need wine for flavor. Of course, there are exceptions. The globe artichoke, for example, works well with wine.

For the following recipe, look for young artichokes, which are slimmer in shape with relatively soft leaves. They do fine prepared ahead and refrigerated.

However, they may lose some of their fresh fragrance, so revive them with a squeeze of lemon juice just before serving.

6 young artichokes (about 3/4 pound each)

1 lemon, cut in half
Large bunch fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley Large bunch fresh mint
6 cloves garlic, chopped
Salt and pepper
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup olive oil
Juice of half a lemon

Trim the ends of the artichoke stems, leaving about 2 inches on the choke.

Snap off the large bottom leaves, breaking off about 3/4 of each leaf so the edible white part remains. Continue until you reach the soft cone of leaves toward the center of the artichoke. With a serrated knife, trim this flush, removing all the firm top as far down as the cup forming the artichoke bottom.

With a small sharp knife, trim the green parts left near the base of the artichoke, removing tough fibers so only the tender white meat is left. Peel the artichoke stem also down to the white edible center.

Finally, scoop out the hairy choke from the center; Willan finds a melon baller is the best tool, but a sharp teaspoon can be used. As you work, rub the cut edges of the artichokes with the lemon halves to stop the artichokes from discoloring.

Strip the parsley and mint leaves from the stems, reserving 6 mint sprigs for decoration. Chop the herb leaves and mix with the garlic and a little salt.

Press this filling into the hollows in the artichokes, keeping a little for sprinkling.

Set the artichokes, tops down and stems up, in a pan just large enough for them all to sit on the base. Sprinkle with the remaining herb-garlic filling, pour over the white wine and olive oil, and add salt and pepper.

Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer 1 minute. Add enough water to come halfway up the sides of the artichokes, not including the stems. Cover and simmer until the artichokes are tender when pierced with a two-pronged fork, 25 to 35 minutes depending on their size and age. Add more water to the pan during cooking if you need it to keep the artichokes half-covered.

Remove the artichokes and set them, stems upward, in a deep platter or individual bowls. Boil the liquid until it is reduced to about 1 cup, then add the lemon juice; taste, and adjust the seasoning.

Drizzle this sauce over the artichokes as a dressing or pass it separately at the table. Serve the artichokes at room temperature, decorated with the reserved herb sprigs.

Baby artichoke variation: When you can find baby artichokes that are edible whole, substitute 2 per person for the larger ones. Trim and peel the stems.

Halve the artichokes through the stems and cut out any trace of hairy choke. Set the artichokes cut side up in a pan and pile the filling on top. Add wine, olive oil, salt and pepper, and cook as directed above. -

Wine" by Anne Willan

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