Instructions: Rinse asparagus; snap off and discard tough ends. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat, bring 1/2 inch water to a boil. Add asparagus and simmer, stirring occasionally, until barely tender when pierced, about 2 minutes; drain.

Meanwhile, rinse sole and lay pieces flat (if unskinned, skin up). Align an equal portion of asparagus, tips in same direction, at 1 end and across the narrow width of each fillet; roll fillet to enclose asparagus. Set sole, seam down, in a buttered, shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart casserole. Cover tightly with foil.

Bake in a 425 degree regular or convection oven until fish is opaque but moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 12 to 16 minutes.

Spoon wine sauce over fish and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Wine Sauce: In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, frequently stir butter or margarine and minced shallots until golden, about 3 minutes. Add wine. Boil on high heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 1/4 cup, 5 to 7 minutes. Use hot or warm.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Like the little black dress that accessorizes up or down for the occasion, sole is the fish that adjusts for style. Delicately flavored and unassertive, it provides an elegant foundation for simple to complex seasonings.

All sole are members of the flounder family. Youll find the largest variety at a fish market. Choices may include petrale, English, sand, and Rex sole, starry flounder, and sand dabs (usually whole). Boned sole fillets vary considerably in size - from 2 to 8 ounces, depending upon the variety. Some fillets are skinned, others arent, as the skin is very thin and tender. To make this dish, choose thin fillets; thicker pieces will take a bit longer to cook.

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