Instructions: TO PREPARE THE SAUCE: Pour the oyster liquor from the shells into a saute pan and bring to a boil. Add the oysters and poach gently over medium-low heat for about 2 minutes, until the edges begin to curl. Remove the oysters with a slotted spoon and set aside; reserve the cooking liquid in the pan. Place the peppercorns, 2 garlic cloves, salt, and 1/2 cup of the hot oyster liquid in a blender and puree. Add the puree and oil to the liquid in the pan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool. Add the lime juice and reserved oysters to the mixture; puree again. Transfer the oyster puree to a saucepan and add the stock, cumin, thyme, and remaining garlic. Simmer for 20 minutes over low heat, then strain into a clean saucepan. Whisk in the butter until completely incorporated and set aside.

TO PREPARE THE STEAKS: Wrap a bacon slice around each filet, securing with kitchen twine, and season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy saute pan to almost smoking. Lower the heat to medium and sear the steaks for 5 minutes per side; the filets should be crusty and browned on the outside and rare to medium-rare on the inside. If you prefer, cook about 1 minute longer on each side for medium-rare or about 2 minutes more per side for medium. While the steaks are cooking warm the oyster sauce.

TO PREPARE THE LEEKS: Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the leeks and cook for 2 minutes. Drain carefully, toss in a bowl with the butter, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

TO SERVE: Ladle the sauce on warm serving plates and place the steaks on top. Carefully cut the twine around the steaks and discard it. For each serving, divide the leeks into 3 portions around the beef and place a smoked oyster on top of each portion of leeks (3 per plate).

NOTES : The starting point for the steaks in this recipe is a USDA prime or choice beef tenderloin with the tapered ends (head and tail) removed to assure a reasonably uniform steak shape and thickness. Aging beef naturally affects tenderness and flavor , - enzymes produced by anaerobic bacteria break down muscle fibers while imparting an "aged" flavor to the meat , - one that I far prefer to that of "fresh" meat. The sauce can be prepared ahead of time, and its another fine example of the compatibility of steak and oysters. If you want to smoke your own oysters, use small Pacific types such as Hog Island or Kumamoto oysters. Cold-smoke them in the shell for 30 minutes or barbecue them over a very low covered fire with plenty of soaked wood chips for 15 minutes until the shells open slightly. In either case, make sure the oysters do not dry out or "boil" in their shells, and simply shuck them when they cool.

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