Instructions: Under cold running water, rinse the anchovies. Blot dry, and remove all bones. In a mortar with the pestle, pound the garlic to a paste with a little salt and pepper. Add anchovies, and pound until roughly mashed.

In a small saucepan, warm the olive oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add half the anchovy mixture, red-wine vinegar, and lemon zest. Gently simmer for 2 minutes. Stir in remaining anchovy mixture. Taste, and adjust for seasoning.

Transfer sauce to a warmed bowl or individual ramekins. Serve with assorted raw vegetables.

This recipe yields about 1 1/2 cups.

Comments: Centuries ago, on cold mornings in the Piedmont region of Italy, vineyard workers would take a break from their labor, gather dried vine cuttings together as fuel for a fire, and heat up a sauce of olive oil, garlic, and anchovies. The result, bagna cauda (or "hot bath").

Yield: 1 1/2 cups

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