Instructions: Bread flour, toasted sesame seed, poppy seed, and/or toasted wheat germ In a large mixing bowl stir together the 21/2 cups water and yeast. Let stand about 3 minutes or till mixture looks creamy. With a freestanding electric mixer or by hand with a spoon, add 3 to 4 cups of the flour, a little at a time, mixing on low speed at first and then on medium speed. (This will take about 10 minutes.) Sprinkle the salt over the dough during the last minute of mixing.

If your mixer has a dough hook, continue to add flour, 1/2 cup at a time, till the dough clings together and cleans the side of the bowl. Continue mixing on medium speed about 5 minutes to make a stiff dough that is smooth and elastic. Or, to knead by hand, with a spoon stir in as much of the remaining flour as you can. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead in enough of the remaining flour to make a stiff dough that is smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes total).

Shape the dough into a ball. Place dough in a large greased bowl; turn once to grease surface of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place till double (11/2 to 2 hours). Or, cover and chill overnight. Punch the dough down and knead gently in the bowl just a few strokes. Cover and let rise again till nearly double (3/4 to 1 hour in a warm place, or 11/2 to 2 hours in the refrigerator). Punch dough down again and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 4 equal portions. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.

To shape loaves, work with 1 portion of dough at a time, leaving others covered. Flatten 1 portion with the heel of your hand to about an 8x4-inch rectangle, pressing out air bubbles as you go. Bring up the long edges of the dough and pinch together to close the seam, gently stretching the loaf lengthwise as you work (see photo, left). Pat the dough flat again, then repeat pinching and stretching to make a 17 -inch-long loaf that is about 2 inches in diameter. If the dough becomes too bouncy and shrinks back as you work with it, let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes and continue with another portion of dough. (The dough will be easier to shape after it rests.) Place each loaf, seam side down, in a greased baguette pan* or place loaves 3 to 4 inches apart on greased baking sheets. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place till nearly double (3/4 to 1 hour).

Preheat oven to 450 and adjust 2 oven racks so that one is in the lowest position and the other is in the middle of the oven. With a sharp# knife or clean razor blade, cut 4 or 5 diagonal slashes in each loaf, about 1/4 inch deep. Combine egg white and the 2 tablespoons water; brush atop loaves. Dust with flour or sprinkle with other toppings.

For a crisper crust, place a broiler pan on the bottom oven rack while the oven preheats. When the pan is hot, carefully pour about 1 cup of hot tap water into the pan in the oven. Be careful of the hot steam.

Place bread in the oven on the middle rack. (If you dont have room to bake all of the loaves at once, place the others, covered, in the refrigerator, removing 10 minutes before baking time. Repeat heating broiler pan and adding water for each batch.) Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or till loaves are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped. The water in the pan will evaporate after about 10 minutes of baking time; remove dry pan to avoid warping.

Transfer loaves to wire racks; cool completely. Serve within 12 hours or wrap in freezer wrap and freeze for up to 3 months.

Makes 4 baguettes (20 slices per loaf).

To reheat and crisp bread: Thaw bread, if frozen. Unwrap and place directly on the rack in a preheated 400 oven. Bake for 10 minutes or till crisp and heated through.

*Note: Specially designed baguette pans give the loaves their typical round shape. Baking sheets give the same delicious results, but produce loaves with flat bottoms.

NOTES : The trick to achieving the extra-crispy crust thats the trademark of fine French baguettes is to bake the loaves with a pan of steaming water.

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