Instructions: Trim the leeks, top and bottom. The leek must be 3 times the width of the fillet in length. Cut each layer of the leek off, wash and steam them until floppy. Now refresh with cold water to keep the colour and stop the cooking. Dry on some kitchen paper.

Lay half the leek strip overlapped, horizontally across your work surface, now put one of the fillets vertically on top of the leeks and in the middle grate over a little nutmeg, lemon zest and lay a couple of marjoram sprigs on top. Grind over a little black pepper, then place the other fillet on top. Wrap up in the leeks. Repeat with the other 2 fillets. Place both in a heavily buttered oven proof dish, pour over the wine and cover with some aluminium foil. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes at 180C/gas 4.

In the meantime, work the butter with the flour to a paste. Put the water and wine into a saucepan and put over a moderate heat. Take a little of the butter on the end of a sauce whisk and whisk into the water and wine as it heats up. Continue until all the butter is finished. Simmer for 30 seconds. Season with the nutmeg and salt, but hold back on the pepper as watercress is quite peppery. Add the cream and the chopped watercress then taste. Now squeeze in the lemon juice, and taste again.

Remove the trout carefully onto your warmed serving dish and pour over some of the sauce. Garnish with lots more watercress and serve.

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