Instructions: Since Turkey borders some of the best fishing seas in the world, I was surprised to find that fish was not commonly eaten until the rise of tourist influence during the past century. Many Turks believed that unless consumed with alcohol, which was forbidden, the fish would come back to life and swim around in the belly. As our new friends Cezmi and Zeynep explained in one of Istanbuls fine fish restaurants, modern Turkey is a far more secular society now, and people no longer hesitate to kill the fish with plenty of raki for good measure.

24 preserved vine leaves
1 1/2 lbs. firm-fleshed fish such as sea bass or halibut, boned, skinned and cut into 24
large, bite-size chunks
Lemon wedges for garnish
Marinade:
2 onions, grated
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon nigella seeds (sometimes called black cumin, available in Middle Eastern and Indian groceries)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Soak the vine leaves in cold water for at least an hour, changing the water after every 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place the grated onion in a mixing bowl and stir in the rest of the marinade ingredients. Place the fish in the marinade and chill for at least an hour, turning every once in a while.

Prepare the grill or turn the oven on to 375 degrees. Drain the leaves and spread them one at a time on a flat surface. Place a piece of fish in the center of each leaf, and wrap the fish up in a neat packet. Thread the packets onto kebab skewers and brush them with any remaining marinade. Grill for 2-3 minutes per side or bake for 15 minutes. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and a stiff shot of raki.

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