Instructions: In the tropics, banana plants are among the most useful and valuable of plants. Not only do they produce huge bunches of nutrient-rich fruits with minimal care and make lovely ornamental subjects in the garden, but just about every part of the plant is good for something.

The large leaves are used to wrap meats, fish, produce and ready-made snacks and desserts in open-air markets and bazaars throughout Southeast Asia. They are more environmentally friendly than the plastic bags and styrofoam boxes that have taken their place in the city markets. The leaves also are used to wrap foods for cooking, imparting a delicious aroma.

The porous but fibrous trunk of the plants can be sliced into lengths, sun-dried and made into tough string for tying packages and bundling goods. The tender interior of the stem is edible and, in the countryside, is cooked in curry sauces and stews as a vegetable. And the dark, purplish-red flower bud, which is readily available in many Southeast Asian markets in the Bay Area, makes wonderful salads and accompaniments to chili sauces and noodle dishes.

When a banana plant matures, it puts out an enormous flower bud. Between the layers of petals are small blossoms that look a lot like baby bananas. These develop one row at a time as the bud unfolds. When sufficient rows of fruit have developed, the remaining bud is cut off. (Cutting off the bud at a certain point ensures larger and healthier bananas. If all the flowers were allowed to develop, the bananas would diminish in size with each successive row, and the size of the fruits in the earlier rows would be compromised as they compete for food.)

Central American banana growers used to discard flower buds. But now they know better. Theyve found a market for the buds among Southeast Asians. Banana blossoms can be eaten cooked or raw. They may be steamed, boiled or roasted whole over charcoal till cooked through.

I prefer them raw for their firm, crisp texture, fresh flavor and more appealing color. However, they do have an astringent taste if not eaten with the proper accompaniments. When theyre served with spiced creamy dressings, this astringent quality all but disappears, allowing one to enjoy the other flavors of this exotic tropical flower.

Some Southeast Asian cultures consume the entire bud, including its darker outer leaves. Thais prefer to eat only the light pink and creamy white petals that form the heart of the blossom. Because the petals contain a sap that turns black when cut, they should be immediately soaked in water containing lime or lemon juice to retain their color.

If you arent able to find a fresh bud in an Asian market, substitute a preserved blossom. They are sold packed in brine in jars or canned, though neither produces as good a salad as the fresh blossom. Because the jarred and canned blossoms dont contain the astringent sap, it is not necessary to soak them in lime water after shredding. ^ ^ Kasma Loha-unchit teaches Thai cooking in Oakland and is author of Dancing Shrimp: Favorite Thai Recipes for Seafood (Simon & Schuster 2000). Contact her through her Web site,

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