Instructions: We have judged brisket around the country and have found that most teams (and we assume the backyard chefs) really suffer when it come time for the brisket to be judged. Most cooks have few clues as to how to prepare brisket that is both tender and flavorful while at the same time not overly smoked, bitter and tough. There are many "crutches people use in preparing brisket. We will attempt to help you avoid these crutches, to really barbecue brisket and have something to rave about and wonder why you didnt win the category!

To demonstrate effective barbecuing of the brisket, we are going to spend some time showing you how and what to look for in selecting a brisket, how to begin preparing the brisket as well as cooking and proper slicing to achieve optimum results needed to serve competition quality brisket.

In each of the topics we will be visiting, (selection, preparation, etc.) we will explain how the contestants move through the process of creating award winning entries for the judges to select from. There are thumbnail photos, which when "clicked" will display the full sized photo.

The brisket might very well be the most difficult piece of meat there is to barbecue. It is naturally tough, contains two separate, distinct muscles separated by a layer of fat that does not render. The meat absorbs smoke like a sponge, can become bitter very easily and is so large as to require longer periods of cooking times. There are many competition teams that admit they do not have a clue as to how to "cook those dern things". Well, we would like to eliminate some of the mystique surrounding this cut of beef and hopefully speed everyone to a better barbecuing experience with the brisket ... at least to make the judges job more difficult!

Selecting the best brisket is a combination of skill and luck. As you may be aware, the brisket comes from the front (chest) of the cow, between and in front of the animals front legs. This cut of meat is most used for walking and is thus naturally tough. As such, it requires some careful determination in selecting the best cut for judging/eating.

When selecting our brisket we do so carefully and say a little prayer. The selection process involves not selecting the largest brisket ( they are from older and tougher cows) but instead choose a cut from a medium size cow, which cut averages 8 to 10 pounds. We also select a brisket that is "flexible" or "pliable". For example, place your hand vertically under the center of the brisket and let the brisket "flop" over the edges of your hand. Like a tenderloin, we select the one that has the most natural bend. If it is tough coming out of the butcher shop, it will be more difficult making it more tender on the grill. Let the next guy buy the tougher cut.

In the photo to the right, we flip the brisket over and begin to remove the outside fat that also will not render. It is hard, tough and often slightly yellow in color. It can be safely removed without and detriment to the tenderness of the meat. In this trimming, I go down to the muscle so that there is only a slight amount of fat remaining. It will look mostly red with a sprinkling of fat remaining.

Viewed from the other side (not flipped over) you can see that we have removed most of the fat that was situated on the top "outside portion" of the brisket. We went into the brisket about 2 inches in order to remove the maximum amount of fat and keep the brisket whole. The fat shown on the front of the brisket in this photo is handled a little differently.

In this same view, from the large end (also called "the point"), notice two things.

First, look how deep we cut into the fat layer of the brisket in order to remove the maximum amount of fat separating the two muscles. There is always this fat layer in the center traveling the length of the brisket keeping the two muscles separate.

Second, notice the approximately 1 inch layer of fat along the bottom [in the front of this photo]. This layer will vary between 1/4 inch to about 1 inch in thickness. If you select a brisket with the 1/4 inch of fat along this side, you can probably thank your butcher! More than likely it did not come that way. The goal is to trim this edge to about 1/4 inch in thickness. It offers a protective layer during the long periods of cooking. Although it will not render, it will help keep the meat moist and prevent the meat from becoming overly bitter or having a too strong a smoke flavor.

OK, we have now selected the best brisket and trimmed it to perfection. Now it is time to get to seasoning. Some folks choose to marinade the brisket. We have found that that process only penetrates the meat to a depth of about 1/4 inch. When cooking a large piece of meat that thick, this is not effective. The only way we know to make it tender is to cook it slowly......More about that later. Seasoning........We use a dry rub. It is called dry because we use dry spices to shake, sprinkle, douse, cover, etc., the meat and then rub it into the meat. Thus "Dry" "Rub". Get it?

#1 SECRET

Place a very light coat of ordinary yellow mustard on the meat before coating it with the dry rub seasoning.

Here is secret number 1 ........ before using the dry rub on your meat, ..... take a pastry brush and "paint" the brisket with a light coat of regular, everyday yellow mustard. Yup. Yellow mustard. Not heavily though. I know it does not look quite natural, but what it does for the overall taste will be excellent. Reassure your friends that you have not lost your mind. Taking this step, accomplishes several things. First, it helps keep the meat moist. Second, it helps to seal the meat and set up a tender crust. Third, the vinegar the mustard will help to a slight degree to tenderize the meat (i.e. tender crust) and fourth, it helps keep the dry rub on the brisket. The first several times I saw this done, I had my doubts also. But doing and tasting is believing. Dont skip this step if you are really seeking competition brisket. Nuff said.

[Notice these are old photos that do not reflect the mustard application. Updated photos are on the way!]

Heres the rub......I use a glass "sprinkle jar"....sort of like the ones that you see in the pizza parlors for the red pepper flakes. It has holes large enough for the seasoning to flow out without having to force it through the smaller holes and not open so as to accidentally "pour" all of the seasonings on the meat. Notice in the photo to the right that the seasoning is going on this brisket in a heavy fashion. Also notice that this brisket does not have a mustard coating on the meat.

Cover the meat thoroughly. We usually sprinkle a liberal amount of dry rub on the brisket. Once the mustard and juices from the brisket commingle with the dry rub, it will become a "wet rub". A somewhat gooey mess. When handling the brisket from here on.....try not to rub the ingredients off. Again, it will then be a "paste type coating" and care should be given to the seasonings on the meat until it has had a chance to "set up" in the pit. We usually move the brisket from this phase directly to the pit itself. You may want to let the seasonings sit for an hour or more if you choose. It seems to be a matter of preference on this point. If you choose to let the brisket "rest" in the seasonings and wrap in wrap, be careful not to remove too much of the seasoning.

Maybe this is the best time to let the biggest secret to fixing great brisket out of the bag.......

Brisket cannot be cooked like pork!!!

#2 SECRET

Brisket can stand very little smoke during the cooking process becoming bitter.

Do not OVER Smoke!

Do we have your attention??? Pork is quite "forgiving" when it comes to the use of excessive smoke from various sources (be it wood, charcoal or strong smoking chips). Smoke sausage, smoke ribs, smoke butts.....they all work great and they can retain their unique flavor very nicely (This assumes you are not really pouring the smoke to the meat!). NOT SO WITH BRISKET! Hear this loud and clear. CUT THE SMOKE! Brisket is very much like a sponge in this respect. On top of that.......most teams cook the brisket on the same units - at the same time - as they do the pork butts, shoulders and ribs. Our experience is that does not work very well.

Wood is your best and worst friend. You know its sort of like going out dancing with a beautiful person. Early in the evening it is fun, romantic and possibly hopeful. As the evening progresses and you stay too long at the party, tiredness sets in, you get cranky, accidently step on feet and get into an argument. Try not to stay too long at the party and let the smoke waft through the pit and not become a smokestack!

Too many teams choose to use real wood (as opposed to coals from burned down wood) in their fire boxes. At the very least, use a good grade of charcoal. We are going to take time here to belabor a point that we really want to get across to you.......................

USE ONLY WOOD THAT HAS BEEN BURNED DOWN TO COALS OR CHARCOAL WHICH HAS BEEN BURNED DOWN TO GRAY ASH. DO NOT USE GREEN WOOD, WHOLE LOGS OR UNBURNED CHARCOAL. ALL OF THESE METHODS WILL PLACE TOO MUCH SMOKE FLAVOR IN THE MEAT. IF YOU ARE USING GAS, YOU DO NOT HAVE THE "TOO SMOKY" PROBLEM USUALLY.

Use a charcoal chimney when using charcoal and/or a special "burn pit" to burn down the wood you decide to use. Once you have gray ashes on the charcoal or red coals from the burned down wood, then use a shovel or other such device and gently place the charcoal/coals in the pit. Yeah, I know, this is a real pain .... But, just perhaps, but it will result in much more flavorful (read here NOT TOO SMOKY) brisket. OK, nuff said. This is a key point in cooking brisket.

If you desire a little extra smoke flavor, you may occasionally place a small twig or branch on top of the coals. This is done sparingly and cautiously. Otherwise, we are back to our over smoked brisket.

Now, its time to cook . . . . .

The thermometer on your barbecue pit should be reading approximately 225 degrees for barbecuing. This 225 degrees should be from a thermometer located at the same level in the pit as the meat. Since many thermometers are located at a higher vertical position than the meat its self, temperature readings in the 235 - 250 degree range are acceptable since heat rises and with the location of the thermometer being some 8 inches HIGHER than where the meat is situated you will actually be cooking at 225 degrees at the level of the meat. Recap: You know that heat rises....therefore the temperature 8 to 10 inches higher than the location of the meat is hotter. Thirty (30) to 50 degrees hotter is not uncommon. Each pit is different. If possible, place your thermometer at the same height as where the meat and cook at 225 degrees. Judgement about your particular pit is needed here.

OK, once the pit is up and going, it is now time for the brisket to be placed in the barbecue pit. I am assuming you are using the indirect method of cooking. The cooking temperature should be approximately 210 to 225 degrees F. Cooking time? That will vary. Usually a 10 pound brisket will take approximately 8 to 12 hours. It is a matter of practice and experience. I see some teams using a meat thermometer with a brisket. Most do not. The internal temperature is not nearly as important as the length of time required in the cooking process. A brisket cooked 8 to 10 hours at 225 degrees is done!

The meat should be cooked well done .... no pink. Briskets need long and slow cooking times. That provides plenty of time to enjoy your favorite beverage, talk barbecue and enjoy friends and the relatives of choice.

When cooking a brisket, we place the meat as far away from the source of the heat as possible. This provides for even cooking temperatures. If it is too close to the source, then one side will be cooked at higher temperatures than the other and it will not have a consistent tenderness. If you have a smaller pit (i.e. a Weber Kettle) then place the charcoal on one side of the pit and the meat on the other. You will then have to rotate the meat ever 30 minutes or so (preferably when you baste the meat) to keep the cooking temperatures consistent on the meat. If you are using a vertical cooker, then try using some type of pan under the meat to catch the juices (to prevent flaring up) and to act as a diffuser for even temperature cooking. A water pan with about 1/4 inch of water is great for this purpose and will keep the juices from scorching and flavoring the meat with a burned taste.

To baste or not to baste???

Do not baste at first. Allow the "wet rub" to thicken up, become a little dry and be "one with the meat" before basting. Said another way, if you should decide to baste the brisket while using the the dry rub method (as opposed to the marinade method), do not baste the meat until the rub on the brisket has formed a crust (roughly 2 to 4) hours . The reason is that basting prior to this time will result in washing the rub off which defeats the purpose.

Later, you can periodically raising the lid and begin basting the brisket with a liquid marinade or other product in order to intensify flavor is a matter of preference. We are conscious that whenever lifting the lid on any unit, there is a period of time that the meat is not cooking because all of the heat has been released. The pit then needs some time to restore proper cooking temperatures. Another note, if your baste includes some type of sugar product (i.e. sugar, fruit juice, etc.) or some oils like butter, also wait until later in the cooking process to use this type product to keep it from burning.

Basting can be accomplished several different ways......Primarily with the use of a barbecue mop or a hand held spray bottle. The barbecue mop is an approximate 12 inch wooden handle with cotton tassels on the end....just like a household floor mop.....only smaller. It is great for soaking up lots of liquid and quickly and gently "dabbing" the sauce on the meat. Do not rub! It will remove the rub or glaze which you have so carefully tried to create! The other method is to use a small (6 oz or so) spray bottle to spray the meat when applying the baste. The spray bottle can only handle pure liquid, juices without pulp, etc. The mop can handle all types of larger fibers or even chunks of seasonings, crushed garlic, onions, carrots, celery, etc. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER USE TOMATO BASED PRODUCTS TO BASTE THE BRISKET. THEY WILL BURN AND BECOME BITTER LONG BEFORE THE MEAT IS READY TO BE EATEN!

The brisket can be cooked in just about any type of unit as you may have. It is easier to cook in a larger barbecue pit with an offset fire box to supply the heat. That is not to rule out the use of drum, kettle, vertical, spit or any other type of barbecue pit which you may have available. There have been many TONS of brisket cooked in a variety of methods. The offset is, however, the most common pit in the contests.

Whats all of this I hear about aluminum foil?

Now you say, why in the heck should I settle for less than tender brisket when you have just told me how to make mine tender, if I dont cook it too long in the foil? There is a compromise here.

Were about 1/2 way through cooking.... Many, many, many, many teams choose to use aluminum foil in the cooking process. Why? Because they are struggling to cook brisket that is both tender and not too smoky. In actually, they end up "steaming/braising" the meat (which will make the meat tender and quite possibly mushy as opposed to barbecuing it. We try to discourage this practice. The primary purpose of the foil is two (2) fold: 1.) to create a barrier between the meat and the smoke and 2.) to steam the meat to make it tender. The irony in all of this is that if the brisket is cooked at low temperatures 210 to 225 degrees for 10 to 12 hours in the ashes/coals we discussed above, the brisket would be tender, flavorful and not too smoky and it would be BARBECUED! Funny, huh? We kid you not......this is the biggest mistake teams [and we would suspect backyard chefs also] make in cooking brisket.

It is quite acceptable to wrap under certain conditions and still have your meat barbecued. Listen up. About 7/8ths the way through cooking, or even when you are finished, it is quite acceptable to wrap the meat in foil, IF YOU THEN REMOVE THE MEAT FROM THE HEAT. What we are talking about is to go ahead and wrap the meat in foil and then do one of several things.

Option 1 - Place the wrapped brisket in a "heat retaining container" until time for the judges to come by and pick up the meat or it is time to eat! Ex.: Ice chest, blankets, layers of boxes inside one another, etc.

Option 2 - Replace the meat in the cooker after the heat from the fire has been removed/reduced. Allow the fire to "die out" and just the temperature of the grill itself should keep the meat warm.

It is now time to sit back and enjoy the process with friends, family and cold refreshments. Occasionally check the fire and insure that it is maintaining the proper temperature range and then go back to the friends, family and refreshments. As we mentioned above, this portion of the event should last anywhere from 8 to ? hours depending upon the size of the brisket.

We believe, by following these very simple steps, recommendations and suggestions, your brisket will be significantly improved when cooking this difficult cut of meat.

Coming shortly, we will have a complete section on how to slice this difficult cut of meat.

Want more on BRISKET? Check out Smokys comments on cooking a brisket.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.