Instructions: Soak wood chips for 1 hour in water and/or beer to cover, then drain.

To prepare rub: In small bowl, combine salt, brown sugar, paprika and pepper. Stir to mix. (Note: Use fingers; they work best.) Store rub in airtight jar away from heat and light. Will keep at least 6 months.

To prepare charcoal grill: Set up grill for indirect grilling. Preheat to medium. Place large drip pan in center. Toss all wood chips or hunks on coals.

Or to prepare gas grill: Place all wood chips or chunks in smoker box or in smoker pouch. (To make pouch, wrap soaked chips in foil to make a pillow-shape and poke a few holes in top of pouch. Place pouch under grate over burner.) Preheat on high until you see smoke. Reduce heat to medium.

To prepare beer can: Pop tab off beer can. Pour 3/4 cup beer over soaking wood chips or chunks, or reserve for another use. Using church key-style can opener, make 2 more holes in top of can. Set aside.

To prepare chicken: Remove packet of giblets from body cavity of chicken. Set aside for another use. Remove and discard fat just inside body and neck cavities. Rinse chicken, inside and out, under cold running water. Drain. Using paper towels, blot dry, inside and out. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon rub inside body cavity and 1/2 teaspoon inside neck cavity. Drizzle oil over outside of bird. Rub or brush oil over skin. Sprinkle outside of bird with 1 tablespoon rub. Rub it all over skin. Spoon remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons rub into beer through hole in top of can. (Note: Dont worry if beer foams up; this is normal.)

To position chicken: Hold bird upright, with opening of body cavity at bottom. Lower bird onto beer can so can fits into cavity. Pull chicken legs forward to form tripod so bird stands upright. (Note: If cooking on roaster, fill it with the beer mixture and position chicken on top, following manufacturers instructions.) Tuck tips of wings behind chickens back.

To cook chicken: Stand chicken up in center of hot grate over drip pan and away from heat. Cover grill. Cook chicken for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, or until skin is dark golden brown and very crisp and meat is cooked through (about 180 degrees on instant-read meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of thigh but not touching bone). Add 12 fresh coals per side after 1 hour. (Note: If chicken skin starts to brown too much, loosely tent bird with foil.)

To serve chicken: Using tongs, hold bird by can and carefully transfer to upright position to platter. Let chicken rest for 5 minutes. Carefully lift it off can. (Note: Take care not to spill hot beer or otherwise burn yourself.) Halve, quarter, or carve chicken. Serve.

This recipe yields 2 to 4 servings.

Steve Raichlen"

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