Instructions: Almost any vegetable or vegetable trimming is a candidate for stock: corn cobs and husks, summer and winter squash, red and yellow peppers, green beans, zucchini, mushrooms, potatoes, collard greens, and kale stalks.

Stock is a great place to put tomato seeds and skins. Use green peppers, eggplants, turnips, and cabbage in limited quantities, as their flavor tends to be overpowering. Avoid beets, which will turn a stock red, and asparagus, which will turn it green.

* including basil, oregano, chives, and/or parsley stems (optional)

1. Combine the onion, leeks, carrots, celery, tomatoes, garlic, chopped vegetables, tomato paste, bouquet garni, herbs (if using), and water in a stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the stock, uncovered, adding water as necessary to keep the vegetables covered, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until well flavored. (A certain amount of evaporation will take place-this helps concentrate the flavor.) Skim the stock as necessary and season with pepper and salt or soy sauce to taste at the end.

Alternatively, the stock can be cooked in a pressure cooker for 15 minutes.

2. Strain the stock, pressing with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible from the vegetables. Cool the stock to room temperature, then refrigerate or freeze. (Refrigerated stock will keep 3 to 45 days; frozen it will keep for 6 months.) For a thicker, richer stock, force the liquid and vegetables through a vegetable mill or puree in a blender, then strain.

Makes 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 quarts (depending on the vegetables used, the size of the pot, and the length of the cooking time). I like to freeze 1-cup portions of vegetable stock, so I always have the right amount on hand.

Roasted vegetable stock: For a richer, more full-flavored vegetable stock, roast the vegetables in a lightly oiled roasting pan in a 400F oven for 45 minutes, or until nicely browned. Transfer the vegetables to a stockpot.

Deglaze the roasting pan with 1/2 cup dry white wine and add the deglazing mixture to the stockpot as well. Prepare as above.

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