Instructions: Pour enough warm water over the dried mushrooms in a small bowl to cover completely. Let soak until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, discard the stems and mince the caps.

Make the filling: Mix the mushrooms ground beef, water chestnuts, green onion, egg, chicken broth, cornstarch, oyster-flavored sauce, soy sauce, wine, cilantro, ginger, sesame oil and sugar together in a bowl. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

For the Sauce: Stir the water, soy sauce, wine and sugar together in a small saucepan.

For the Rolls: Cut each rice noodle sheet into four 5- by 8-inch rectangles. Lay one of the rice noodle rectangles on the work surface with one of the long edges toward you. Spread 1/4 cup of the filling in a band along the bottom edge of the rice noodle. Roll loosely to enclose the filling. Flatten the roll slightly with your hand and place it in a heatproof 9-inch glass pie plate. Repeat with the remaining noodles and filling, arranging the rolls in a single layer in the baking dish as you work.

Prepare the wok for steaming. Steam the rolls over high heat until the beef is cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes.

Heat the sauce to simmering, pour over the steamed rolls and serve immediately.

This recipe yields 8 rolls for 4 servings.

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