Instructions: In a 6- to 8-quart stockpot combine fish bones, leeks, half of parsnips, coarsely chopped, celery, parsley, and peppercorns. Add enough water to cover ingredients by 2 inches, about 12 cups. Bring to a boil, skimming off froth as it rises to the surface, and simmer until reduced by one-third, to 8 cups, 30 to 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, make dumplings: In a food processor combine cod, milk, creme fraiche, cornstarch, salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Process until smooth. Transfer puree to a bowl, cover and chill at this point, if you like. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks and fold gently into fish puree, just until combined.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer. Drop in dumpling batter, by tablespoonfuls, and simmer them for 2 minutes on each side, turning them gently with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels while you make remaining dumplings.

Strain fish stock into a cleaned saucepan, add potatoes, carrots and remaining parsnips, peeled and diced. Simmer until vegetables are just tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Add dumplings to soup and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a bowl whisk reserved egg yolks with 2 tablespoons creme fraiche. Ladle 1/2 cup hot stock over yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour warmed yolk mixture back into soup, whisking, until soup thickens slightly.

This recipe yields 8 servings.

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