Instructions: MILK BISCUITS: Buttermilk is the most popular; its acid works with the acid in baking powder to create carbon dioxide. But whole milk - called "sweet milk" in old recipes - cream, and half-and-half also are common.

BEATEN BISCUITS: Tiny and crisp - all that beating breaks down the gluten in the dough - they are usually served with country ham.

ANGEL BISCUITS: Triple-raised with baking powder (or self-rising flour), baking soda and yeast, they get their name from their light texture. Theyre also called "brides biscuits," because theyre guaranteed not to fail.

CATHEAD BISCUITS: There are several theories. Some say theyre big biscuits - as big as a cats head. Some say they are drop biscuits with craggy tops that look furry. And some say they are shaped with ridges on the top that look like ears.

SWEET POTATO BISCUITS: Thrifty cooks throw all sorts of leftovers into dough.

For these, cooked, mashed sweet potatoes are added to the liquid for a milk biscuit, making a rich, chewy biscuit.

BISCUITS: Home-made and lighter than a feather

Step By Step

1. Sift together flour and other dry ingredients into a bowl. Add shortening or lard, then work it in lightly with your fingertips. Fine crumbs of fat will yield a tender biscuit; larger, flatter crumbs will create flakes.

2. Stir in the milk or buttermilk with a wooden spoon until dough pulls together but is still wet.

3. Turn dough out onto a floured work surface or pastry cloth. Sprinkle with a little flour if necessary, then gently roll dough or pat it out evenly, until about 1/2 inch thick (about half the depth of the first joint of your index finger).

4. Using a round cutter dipped in flour, cut out biscuits. The biscuits will rise if you twist the cutter, but their tops may be slightly tilted.

5. Place biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet and bake in a hot oven

(usually 425 to 500 degrees). If biscuits are touching, they will rise slightly higher and remain softer. If they are placed farther apart, they will be flatter and crispier.

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