Instructions: 1 For the Dipping Sauce: Mash the blue cheese with some creme fraiche or soured cream until smooth, then gradually beat in the remainder.

2 Stir in the lovage, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cut the potato skins up into largish pieces, (aim for triangles or rectangles around 4-5 cm/1 1/2-2" across).

3 Heat the oil to 185c/360f/Gas 4 (test by dropping a cube of bread or a piece of potato skin into the oil - if it immediately starts to fizz and brown within 15-30 seconds, the heat is right).

4 When the oil is hot, fry the skins until golden brown, turning once or twice so that they are evenly cooked. Dont fry too many skins at a time or you will lower the oil temperature too far and end up with greasy results.

5 When done scoop out with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with salt and serve piping hot with the dipping sauce.

6 Alternatively toss the potato skins in oil, working it over with your fingers until they are evenly coated.

7 Then spread out on a baking tray and bake at 220c/425f/Gas 7 for about 8-12 minutes until browned and crisp. Serve as before.

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