Instructions: MAKES 6 SERVINGS. VEGAN

This recipe combines overnight slow-cooking and last-minute sauteing for maximum flavor and minimum fuss.

Night before: Dry seitan chunks thoroughly. In frying pan over moderate heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil; brown seitan, turning frequently. Remove to slow-cooker.

Add carrot to frying pan; stir and toss 3 to 4 minutes. Remove to slow-cooker.

Add onions; swirl in pan to brown. Remove to slow-cooker.

Pour half of wine or other liquid into frying pan; remove pan from heat. Whisk in flour; stir until smooth. (Add more liquid if necessary.) Pour pan juices into slow-cooker; add garlic and remaining liquid. Fold in tomatoes, bay leaf, thyme, salt and pepper. If more liquid is needed to cover seitan, add more wine. Cook 12 hours on low setting (5 to 6 hours on high setting). Cool: refrigerate until 1 hour before serving.

One hour before serving: Heat oil in medium frying pan. Saute mushrooms over high heat, stirring frequently until light brown. Remove from heat; stir gently into stew. Bring stew to serving temperature; serve.

Makes 6 servings.

Variations: Replace half or all of seitan with small, unpeeled, whole potatoes; proceed with recipe.

To bake instead of using a slow-cooker, put in an ovenproof casserole after initial sauteing of ingredients. Bake uncovered in a 425-degree oven 10 minutes or until contents bubble. Reduce heat to 325 degrees, cover and bake 2 hours, or until vegetables are tender. Finish with mush- room step.

To prepare bourguignonne on the stove, saute ingredients in a large stewpot; proceed with rest of recipe. Simmer covered 1 hour, or until vegetables are tender. Finish with mushroom step.

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