Instructions: * Tart cooking apples, such as Stayman, McIntosh, or Gravenstein

Heat the butter and the oil in a large heavy saucepan or flameproof baking dish over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking.

Add the pork loin and brown it on all sides, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the pork from the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until they are golden and softened, 10 to 12 minutes.

Heat the milk with 2 of the bay leaves in a medium-size pan over medium heat until it is steaming and small bubbles have formed around the edges. Be careful not to boil the milk. Cover and keep hot over low heat.

On a cutting board, mince the thyme and the garlic together so they are well combined.

When the pork is cool enough to touch, rub it all over with the garlic and thyme mixture. Season it generously with salt and pepper, and return it to the pan with the onions. Remove the bay leaves from the hot milk, and pour the milk over the pork. Add the remaining 2 bay leaves to the pan, cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Reduce the heat to low and cook at a slow simmer until the pork is tender but still slightly pink in the center (on a meat thermometer, 145 to 150 degrees F), about 1 hour. Turn it occasionally to be sure it cooks evenly.

While the pork is cooking, place the apples in a pan with 2 tablespoons water, cover, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender but still have some texture, about 20 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons or so additional water if necessary to keep the apples from sticking. They should be cooked to a chunky puree. Season with sugar, if desired, and keep warm over low heat.

Transfer the pork to a warmed platter, leaving behind the onions and the cooking liquid. Cover the pork loosely with aluminum foil to keep it warm.

How to Prepare The Soup:
Discard the bay leaves, and puree the onions and liquid in a food processor or blender to make a soup. Taste for seasoning, reheat quickly, and serve as the first course.

To serve the pork, cut it into thick slices. Line a warmed serving platter with the watercress, arrange the pork slices on top and surround them with the apples. Serve immediately.

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