Instructions: To make the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the flour and mustard and stir briskly until a paste is formed. Do not let it brown; adjust heat if necessary. Begin adding the milk in a thin stream, whisking all the while. Never let boil or even simmer, just keep whisking over a low heat until the mixture is smooth and thickened. If for some reason it should lump just bung it into the blender, whir and return to the saucepan.

Pour half of the mixture into a small bowl and whisk to cool a bit.

Whisking all the while, slowly pour the beaten eggs into the bowl of white sauce.When thoroughly incorporated, slowly pour the eggy mixture back into the white sauce in the saucepan, whisking continuously. Continue whisking until thickened. This may take as long as 20 minutes. Again, if it lumps or curds, let your blender rescue you.

When thickened, smooth, and glossy, add the remaining sauce ingredients, stir to blend, and taste for seasoning. Add salt and more horseradish if desired. Set aside and keep warm.

Fill a large pan with water and bring to a boil. Add the sprouts and boil gently just until a small sharp knife can readily pierce them, but beware of overcooking sprouts. (An overcooked Brussels sprout ought to be deported right back to Brussels, taking overcooked cauliflower with it.) Put the Brussels sprouts in a serving dish and pour the sauce over. Garnish with sprigs of parsley, and more pimiento if desired.

Hotter by Geraldine Duncann

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