Instructions: Peel sweet potatoes and cut into chunks. Steam over boiling water until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. (Or, pierce unpeeled potatoes with fork and microwave on high (100 percent power) 12 to 14 minutes, turning over halfway through, let cool and peel.)

Transfer sweet potatoes to mixing bowl and mash, blending in orange zest, buttermilk, butter and brown sugar. Transfer to serving dish. Can be made ahead, refrigerated and reheated in microwave.

Variation: Substitute lemon zest for orange zest. Add ground cinnamon or nutmeg to taste.

NOTES : Fluffy mound that is more savory than sweet and quite satisfying.

Tempted to make these tangy buttermilk potatoes without butter.

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