Instructions: Halve the squash lengthwise, scoop out and discard the seeds, and place it cut side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment or foil. Bake until the skin is browned and wrinkled and the flesh is very soft, about 50 minutes.

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water by at least an inch, add a good pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Cover partway, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the potatoes are tender.

Drain well and return the potatoes to the pot. Dry them over heat, shaking the pan and stirring, until the potatoes are floury and have made a film on the bottom of the pan. Turn the heat to very low.

Put the potatoes through a ricer and return them to the pan, or mash them with a hand masher until lump-free. Beat in the butter, then the sour cream, vinegar, a grating or two of nutmeg, and a few grinds of white pepper. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until fluffy.

Peel the skin from the squash and cut the flesh into chunks. Add it to the potatoes and whisk a few times to combine, but be sure to leave visible lumps of squash. Taste for seasoning and serve hot.

Potato" by Roy Finamore with Molly Stevens

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