Instructions: In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 cups broth and juice to a boil.

Meanwhile, peel squash, seed, and cut into 1-inch chunks (you need 7 to 8 cups).

Add squash, onion, and whole sage leaves to pan, cover, and return to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until squash is very tender when pierced, about 30 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, transfer about half the vegetables to a food processor or blender. Whirl to smoothly puree, adding just enough broth to facilitate. Pour puree into a bowl and repeat to puree remaining vegetables.

Return pureed vegetables to broth in pan. If soup is thicker than you like, thin with more broth. Stir over medium heat until soup is hot.

Ladle into mugs. Add creme fraiche, sage, and salt to taste.

This recipe yields 4 or 5 servings.

Comments: It wouldnt be Christmas for the Easton family without a trek to Farnham Ridge Tree Farm. The first weekend in December, three generations of Eastons canvass the acreage, looking for the perfect white fir. After the tree is cut, Bill Eastons wife, Jane ORiordan, unpacks sandwiches while he uncorks the wine. The heart of the menu is a warming soup transported in a widemouthed thermos. Only when the picnic is eaten, the tree loaded, and the family on the road is the season officially ushered in.

Throughout the West, tree-cutting expeditions are a rediscovered tradition. And a soup picnic like the Eastons fits in well.

Soup can be made up to 2 days ahead. Reheat, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally.

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