Instructions: In a skillet cook bacon until crisp and drain, reserving 1 1/2 tablespoons fat. Crumble bacon.

In a heavy saucepan cook onion, leek, garlic, and bay leaf with salt and pepper to taste in reserved fat over moderate heat, stirring, until softened.

Add squash, apple, peeled and chopped, broth, and 1/2 cup water.

Simmer mixture, covered, until squash is very tender, about 15 minutes, and discard bay leaf.

In a blender puree mixture in batches, transferring as pureed to a clean saucepan, and add enough additional water to thin soup to desired consistency.

Whisk in sour cream or creme fraiche and salt and pepper to taste and heat soup over moderately low heat until hot (do not boil).

Serve soup topped with crumbled bacon and accompaniments.

Makes about 4 1/2 cups.

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