Instructions: A postcard arrived the other day from a friend of mine who is in western China retracing the footsteps of Marco Polo on the Silk Road. So far, he has made his way from Beijing to Xian, the ancient capital city and gateway to Chinas hot and spicy Sichuan cuisine.

Not surprisingly, my friends postcard featured a typical street market in Xian, with an abundance of chilies hanging in every nook and cranny of each food stall in sight. Great street food, my friend wrote, more grills here than a tailgate party at a Niners game!

That reference certainly brought back memories, not of tailgating, but of the nights when I wandered the streets of Xian, marveling at the roadside grills, where skewers of mutton were rotating over flickering flames. The air was thick with the wonderful smell of meat and chili, an unforgettable postcard for the olfactory nerves.

I was told that on an average night, an estimated 20,000 customers visit these food stands. I dont know how they keep count, but judging from the crowd, I couldnt argue with that number.

Grilling meat on skewers owes its origin to the western neighbors of China.

Over the centuries, ethnic groups in Asia Minor interacted with China through trade and migration. The Silk Road became a superhighway, not only for the movement of goods and people, but also for their culture and history.

Of course, the part that appeals to me the most is the movement of culinary traditions. I am fascinated by how food from other parts of the world makes its way to the Chinese dining table.

Despite its foreign origin, roasting skewered meat is now as Chinese as Mongolian hot pot. One of my favorite treats in Xian is skewered lamb on a grill. I have modified the recipe somewhat by adding fresh mint. A trip to the wild, wild west of China - with all the comfort and convenience of your own kitchen. Sounds like the right kind of travel plan to me.

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