Instructions: Cut chicken into serving pieces; peel 8 to 10 cloves of garlic and chop roughly. Marinate chicken in red wine with chopped garlic and thyme for 2 to 4 hours in refrigerator.

Spread remaining cloves of garlic, with skins on, in small baking dish in one layer and cover with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake in preheated 300 degree oven for 1 1/2 hours or until garlic is completely soft. Puree garlic through food mill when done. Discard skins and reserve puree.

About an hour before cooking chicken, remove it from refrigerator. Prepare a medium-low charcoal fire. When fire is ready, remove chicken from marinade. Pat pieces dry, and salt and pepper them. Cook chicken on grill slowly for about 35 minutes, turning frequently. Chicken should be nicely browned, but a bit rare and juicy.

Spread garlic puree over chicken and heat in a 375 degree oven for 5 minutes. Serve chicken on a platter with oven-roasted potatoes, garnished with watercress and lemon wedges.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: This dish emerged at Chez Panisses first garlic festival in 1975, celebrating the garlic harvest. Back then, Waters recalled, garlic was exotic and had been dismissed as a strong-smelling Italian spice.

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