Instructions: If using chard or larger older spinach leaves trim off and discard the thick stalks.

Fill the sink with water and soak the leaves in this for 10 minutes in order to dislodge any grit. Lift the leaves out by hand and repeat the process until the water appears clear.

Put the leaves in a large saucepan with a little salt cover and cook gently for 10-15 minutes stirring occasionally and making sure they dont dry out.

Drain through a colander and gently squeeze out excess moisture (carefully as it will still be quite hot).

Chop the leaves coarsely.

If using defrosted frozen spinach just squeeze its moisture out and chop it.

Preheat the oven 180 C/350 F/gas 4 and lightly oil one large or two mediumsized ovenproof dishes which can be brought from the oven straight to the table.

Heat the remaining oil gently in a frying pan and saute the onion until glistening.

Add the chopped chard or spinach leaves and the basil and saute together for 34 minutes.

Let this cool a little.

Beat the egg lightly in a large bowl add the ricotta and using a fork mix it with the egg.

Add twothirds of the Parmesan and all of the Pecorino the sauteed leaves the pine nuts and 3 tablespoons of the bechamel.

The stuffing should be of a thick creamy consistency but not solid.

Season to taste with pepper.

Stuff the cannelloni with the filling using a small spoon or knife and pushing the stuffing down with a chopstick or a skewer.

Place the stuffed cannelloni tightly together in a single layer in the prepared dish(es) and spread the remaining bechamel sauce evenly over them.

Sprinkle the top with the remaining Parmesan and bake for 40-45 minutes until the top is golden and the cannelloni properly cooked.

When I first went to Rome in 1960 the two dishes which impressed me most were spaghetti alle vongole and cannelloni. I remember buying squares of fresh pasta and taking them back home to my mother in Athens in order to recreate cannelloni. For this vegetarian version I use Swiss chard which has a sweeter taste than spinach and an aroma which reminds me of the open fields a number of different cheeses and pine nuts or occasionally coarsely chopped walnutsfor a difference in texture.

Serves 6

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