Instructions: * Picked over to remove any bits of soft shell or cartilage (the better the crab, the better this dish will taste)

Although Baltimore is best known for hot-spiced crabs, it is also a city that once prided itself on the creamiest seafood stews between Boston and Savannah. Were thinking in particular of the old, long-departed Chesapeake House, where the finest seafood in town was served in high style by a staff of waiters with a tenure that probably went back to some time just after the Civil War.

In remembrance of such bygone silver chafing-dish meals and in salute to the rich crab imperial that is still a specialty of many local crab houses, this seafood chili is as mild as chili can be: svelte and ineffably deluxe, with only enough pepper to keep the tastebuds from falling into a happy, cream-induced stupor. It is a very unusual chili, but one of our favorites when comfort food is required.

1. In a heavy skillet or saucepan, melt the butter and saute the scallions and celery until soft. Add the shrimp and saute until pink.

2. In a small bowl, combine the cream and milk and stir in the flour until smooth. Add the cream mixture to the skillet along with the salt, pepper, celery salt, and chili powder. Stir and cook over low heat until the mixture thickens. Gently stir in the crabmeat and eggs.

3. Serve at once; this chili does not improve with age. Serve on white rice.

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