Instructions: Mixer Method: Mix the water, malt powder, yeast and white wheat flour together in the bowl of an electric mixer and let sit for 5 minutes. Add the semolina and salt, and beat well. Gradually add the bread flour until the dough is a cohesive ball, kneading on medium speed for a total of 5 to 8 minutes. Mix in the Parmesan before you add the last 1/4 to 1/2 cup of flour, and knead until the cheese is well-distributed through the dough. The finished dough should be smooth, elastic, and on the stiff side. Transfer the dough to an ungreased bowl, cover the bowl, and let the dough rise until it has doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface.

Bread Machine Method: Place all of the dough ingredients into the pan of your machine, program the machine for Manual or Dough, and press Start. About 10 minutes before the end of the second kneading cycle, check the dough; it should be smooth and elastic, and on the stiff side, as indicated above. Adjust the consistency of the dough with additional water or flour, as necessary. When the machine has completed its cycle, transfer the dough to a clean work surface.

Shaping: Punch down the dough, let it rest, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes, then roll it out to a 12 x 12-inch square. Place a large, deep pot containing the water bath ingredients onto the stove, and begin to heat the water to boiling.

Use a sharp knife or rolling pizza wheel to cut the dough into 32 equal pieces, approximately 3/4-inch wide by 6 inches long. The easiest way to do this is to cut the dough into 16 equal pieces in the vertical direction, then cut those in half with one swipe in the horizontal direction. If you want, you can roll each piece a bit under your fingers to form more of a log shape; on the other hand, you can leave the pieces as they are, and theyll look more "stick-like."

When the water has come to a full boil, turn the heat down so its at a gentler rolling boil, and drop in 4 or 5 pieces of dough at a time. Boil for 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until the dough has risen to the surface of the water and puffed noticeably. Dont let them boil any longer than this or they may deflate!

Drain each piece well with a slotted spoon or skimmer-type utensil, and carefully transfer to a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush each bread stick gently with the egg wash and sprinkle with as much or as little salt as you crave.

Bake in a preheated 425F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the bread sticks over and bake for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer to a cooling rack. These are much better several hours after theyve cooled; before then they may taste a little gummy, so give them a bit of time, but also be sure to eat them on the same day theyre made.

Yield: 32 bread sticks

Crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside, the bread sticks in this recipe approximate what I would call a New York salt stick. Made from a dough similar to that of bagels, and boiled before baking, also as for bagels, this is the perfect, toothsome bread stick to really sink your jaws into.

The first time I made them, I used much too much topping salt (in my opinion), thereby creating a veritable second crust. Never the salt aficionado - in fact, I never even baked with it until I understood its importance in developing a good, strong yeasted bread dough - I cut back on the outer amount in the final version. But feel free to dust and decorate with however much you see fit, remembering that the cheese will add quite a bit of its own flavor. - A.S.

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