Instructions: Sherry, garlic and chickpeas, a decidedly Andalusian combination of flavors, can be served by itself, as a side dish or with almost any cut of meat, fish or poultry. But I like it best with cod. The subtlety and tenderness of the fish are wonderfully offset by the almost meaty flavors of the scented chickpeas.

Cod, though mild, is distinctive. By getting a well-browned crust on the fish, you highlight its flavors and its texture. The simple technique of browning it on one side and then finishing it in the oven is pretty much infallible. A non-stick pan is essential, but a lot of fat is not. Served browned-side up on the bed of chickpeas, the fish looks fantastic.

The cod, which must be fresh, should be of uniform thickness. If you ask for a cod loin or a captains cut, you will get a thick piece without the thinner tail and belly sections; it might cost a dollar a pound more, but its worth it.

While canned chickpeas are suitable for this dish, dried chickpeas, cooked in advance, are worth the extra work. They take a long time to become tender, often two hours or more, but are superior in taste and texture. While most canned chickpeas, which are precooked, swim in a somewhat suspicious liquid (drain and rinse them before using), freshly cooked chickpeas produce a broth that is so delicious that some of it should be included in the sauce.

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