Instructions: *Separate the eggs carefully; even a small amount of yolk in the whites will prevent them from beating up properly.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar or lemon juice until foamy. Gradually add 1/2 cup of the sugar and continue beating until stiff and glossy. Set aside.

Whisk together the remaining 1 cup sugar with the flour, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, beat the oil, milk, egg yolks and flavorings until pale yellow. Add the dry ingredients and beat until well blended, about 2 minutes at medium speed using a stand mixer, or longer with a hand mixer.

Gently fold in the whipped egg whites, using a wire whip or cake blender. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the bowl so the batter is well-blended. Pour the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan or angel food pan, or two 9-inch round ungreased cake pans. Bake the cake in a preheated 325F oven. If its in a tube or angel food pan, bake it for 50 minutes, then turn up the heat to 350F for the final 10 minutes, making a total baking time of 1 hour. If youre using two 9-inch cake pans, bake for about 40 minutes at 325F, then 10 minutes more at 350F. Dont open the oven during the first 45 minutesof baking; the cake will rise high above the pan, then settle back almost even. Its done when a finger gently pressed in the middle doesnt leave a print, and you can hear a crackling sound if you listen carefully. Cool the cake upside down for 1/2 hour before removing it from the pan. If youve used a tube pan, set it atop a thin-necked bottle, threading the bottle neck through the hole in the tube. Frost the cake, and cut it just before serving; youll need to dip a serrated knife in hot water between each slice if you want smooth, even pieces.

Yield: One cake, about 18 servings

To assemble the cake (if youve made a tube-shaped cake), cut a 1-inch slice off the top of the cake, and reserve it. Slice a 3-inch-deep ring out of the middle of the cake, leaving 1-inch walls on each side. Pull out pieces of the cake to make a 3-inch "trench" in the cake. Dont cut through to the bottom of the cake. Fill the trench with chocolate filling. Place the top back on the cake and refrigerate it until ready to frost. If youve made round layers, simply spread the filling on one layer, and top it with the second layer. The cake should be made at least 4 hours before serving to allow time for the center to set properly.

Variations

To make a lemon chiffon cake, use lemon extract instead of vanilla extract and almond flavoring, and add 2 tablespoons grated lemon rind. Or substitute 1/2 teaspoon lemon oil for the extract and peel. For a chocolate chiffon cake, decrease the flour to 1 3/4 cups, and mix in 1/3 cup Dutch-process cocoa. Also, use buttermilk for the liquid, if you have it; itll give you the most intense chocolate flavor.

NOTES : Chiffon cake can be made plain and fancy in just about any flavor you could think of: lemon, orange, chocolate, peppermint, banana, or with bits of chocolate or nuts. Its often served with just a dusting of confectioners sugar; with whipped cream and fresh fruit, or frosted with a fluffy boiled icing. (Skip the buttercream icing, it just seems to weigh it down.) The cake can also be hollowed out and filled with chiffon filling for a truly elegant dessert. (Cookbooks of the 50s seemed to use the word "elegant" quite often. We assume that after the ration-ticket war years, being able to be elegant once again was every housewifes dream!)

Chiffon cakes may be baked either in tube (angel food) pans, or in 9-inch round cake pans. Like an angel food cake, they must be cooled upside down to maintain their full height.

This recipe makes a large cake, enough for 16 to 20 slices. It also freezes well, and is a good base for Baked Alaska or filled cakes that need to be served cold, because

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