Instructions: To make the relish, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and set aside, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 hours.

To make the marinade, remove stems of the dried California and arbol chiles and shake out and discard seeds. Place chiles in a small saucepan with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let sit 20 minutes to soften. Drain and discard the water.

In a small frying pan over moderate heat, toast the cumin seeds for 2 to 3 minutes or until aromas are released. Combine softened chiles, garlic, cumin seeds, jalapeno and red wine vinegar in a blender and puree at high speed 1 to 2 minutes, or until thick and smooth. Add olive oil and salt and blend again until well mixed.

Place skirt steak in a large shallow glass or enamel dish and cover with marinade. Set aside at room temperature for 1 hour.

To cook, preheat a grill or broiler. Grill steaks quickly for 3 to 4 minutes per side or until seared on the outside and pink inside.

To serve, slice steaks against the grain on the diagonal and fan slices out on a platter. Serve the relish on the side.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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