Instructions: This soup may remind you of mulled wine, but it makes an amazing first course. Its tart rhubarb quality is considerably tempered by the choice of wintry spices and the wine. Select a decent, fruity (not dry) red wine, such as a beaujolais or young pinot noir. If desired, just before serving, add a splash of the same red wine or a bit of sparkling wine.

1/2 teaspoon cardamom pods, lightly crushed (pods and seeds)

6 whole cloves
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, lightly crushed 1 3 inch cinnamon stick, broken into pieces 1/4 teaspoon peppercorns, lightly crushed 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 cups fruity, fairly light red wine such as pinot noir or rose About 1 1/2 cups water, plus additional to taste 1 pound rhubarb, ends and thick strings trimmed (about 4 cups sliced)

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and chopped 1 small or medium beet, peeled and chopped 1 2 inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
About 4 tablespoons maple syrup or honey About 1/3 cup whole-milk yogurt

In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the cardamom, cloves, coriander, cinnamon, peppercorns, thyme, wine and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Strain the mixture, discarding the solids.

Rinse the pan, return the liquid to it and return to medium-high heat. Add the rhubarb, apple, beet, ginger, sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partly covered, until the vegetables are softened, about 35 minutes. Remove from the heat; set aside to cool for at least 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Set aside to cool completely. Taste the soup and, if desired, thin it with additional water. Cover and refrigerate until chilled through, at least 3 hours and preferably overnight.

To serve, gradually stir the maple syrup into the soup. Taste and adjust accordingly. Ladle the soup into bowls.

Whisk the yogurt until smooth, then drizzle a bit into each bowl. If desired, use the tip of a knife to form a pattern.

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