Instructions: Put bean threads in a bowl and add enough hot water to cover. Soak until soft to bite, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, rinse and drain lettuce. Stack 3 or 4 leaves, roll up lengthwise, and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips. Repeat to cut remaining leaves. Place equal portions of lettuce in wide soup bowls, or all of the lettuce in a 3- to 4-quart tureen.

In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat, bring broth and ginger to a boil.

Meanwhile, cut fish across the grain into paper-thin slices. Drain noodles; if desired, snip with scissors into 6- to 8-inch lengths. Mound noodles and fish on lettuce; sprinkle with cilantro and green onions.

To serve, pour boiling broth over fish in bowls or tureen; stir to cook fish evenly. If fish does not turn opaque, cover bowls or tureen tightly and let stand 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt and white pepper to taste.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: To easily slice fish very thin, freeze the piece until its firm when pressed, about 30 minutes, then cut. For drama, bring the boiling broth to the table and ladle it into bowls over the raw fish, lettuce, and noodles - the fish cooks in seconds. Look for wiry bean thread noodles in the international section of well-stocked supermarkets or in Asian markets.

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