Instructions: MAKES ONE 8-TO 10-INCH CAKE

Gently pull the fresh noodles apart with your fingers into a large, loose heap. Boil them in a large pot of salted water until pleasantly firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under water. Shake well, then toss with the dark sesame oil.

Lightly film an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet with half the lighter oil. When its hot, add noodles, then, with a spatula, neaten the sides and press down lightly on the noodles. Fry over medium heat until theyre browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Place a plate on top, grasp the skillet, and invert the cake. Return the empty pan to the heat, add the rest of the oil, and slide the cake back in to cook the second side. Serve on a large round platter, topped with or accompanied by a stir-fry.

These fat cushiony cakes make an appealing accompaniment to stir-fried vegetables and a nice change from rice. The finished cakes can he held in a low oven if theres a gap in your timing. Chinese egg noodles are usually found in the Asian vegetable section of the supermarket, but spaghettini can be used in their place.

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