Instructions: Like wine chocolates are increasingly being affected by issues of varietalism and provenance in the indulgent world of couverture.

LAtelier du Chocolat
used by Michel Roux of Le Gavroche Using impeccably sourced ingredients such as Valrhona chocolates Isigny Ste Mere cream and Escure butter. Artisanal chocolatier Gerard Coleman is highly inventive with his fillings: tobacco pollen and Spanish cabernet sauvignon vinegar are all examples. Try the divine salted caramel or tonka bean (flavourwise a cross between vanilla and almond).

The Chocolate Society
01423 322-230
has been operational since 1991 and although its bonbons are bon it should be your first port of call for Valrhona chocolate including Guanaja Guanaja Lacte Caraibe Manjari and De Le Noir Gastronomie.

Rococo
is the brainchild of Chantal Coady whose philosophy is summed up in her book Chocolate the Food of the Gods. Sells Valrhona along with "house" bars including the 85% Extra Brut and the Plus Noir que Noir with 99% cocoa solids.

Chocolates El Rey
is a recent arrival in the UK selling fine and delicate single criollo bean chocolate solely from Venezuela the original home of chocolate. Varieties include Apamate Gran Saman Bucare Mijao Caoba and Icao. El Rey has already found a home in Waitrose.

Green 8 Blacks (widely available) is your best bet for the larger producers. All organic their chocolatecovered almonds truffles and Maya Gold bars are all excellent.

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