Instructions: Rinse limes or lemons or kumquats; if waxed, rub with a cloth under hot running water. Also rinse citrus leaves. In a 6- to 8-cup wide-mouth clear decorative jar with lid, tightly pack fruit, fitting leaves between fruit and jar.

Mix vinegar and sugar until clear. Pour into jar, filling to cover fruit. (If you need more liquid, blend each additional 1 cup vinegar with 2 to 3 tablespoons sugar.) If fruit floats above liquid, push a wad of clear plastic wrap (large enough to reach the rim of the jar) on top of it. Close jar airtight.

Let stand until vinegar is aromatic, at least 2 weeks or up to 3 months. (Limes and citrus leaves turn yellowish green as they stand.) Check occasionally to maintain liquid level; if it evaporates enough to expose fruit, the exposed parts discolor dramatically.

This recipe yields 2 to 6 cups vinegar and 4 to 7 cups fruit; jar sizes can vary, but liquid must cover fruit

Comments: Lime and lemon vinegars develop a pleasant, slightly bitter flavor after a month or so. In addition to using the vinegar in salads, add a little of the chopped pickled fruit, peel and all.

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