Instructions: Rice goes with everything. (Yes. My uncle used to eat it with spaghetti.) But to fully appreciate new-crop rice, dont overpower it with marinara sauce.

Rather, a meal with assorted Japanese pickles and a soup like this one will let you enjoy the delicate smell and flavor of the rice.

This recipe serves 5.

1 (1 2/3 inch) piece kamaboko (fish cake) (see Notes)

1/2 bunch (about 1/8- 1/4 pound) shimeji mushrooms (see Notes)

4 snow pea pods
4 cups dashi stock (see Notes)

1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons soy sauce

Cut kamaboko in half lengthwise, then into 1/4 inch-thick slices. Cut off the rough bottom and break apart the shimeji mushrooms. In a small saucepan, bring 1 1/2 cups water to a boil; add snow peas and cook for 20 seconds. Remove snow peas and slice on the diagonal, about 1/2 inch wide.

In a separate saucepan, bring dashi to a boil; season with salt and soy sauce. Add shimeji; cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the kamaboko slices and cook for 30 seconds more. Ladle the soup into four owan, small wooden bowls, or other small bowls. Garnish with snow peas.

Notes: Kamaboko is fish paste, similar to imitation crab, shaped in a mound on a wooden board. Its often white, with the surface tinted pink.

Shimeji are clump mushrooms, from 3 to 5 inches tall.

Dashi is soup stock. It is made from bonito shavings or kelp, or can be made quickly from instant powders and stock bags. To make a kelp or kombu dashi, wipe a 2 inch-square piece of kombu with a wet cloth; bring it just to a boil in 4 cups of water. Remove kombu.

All are available in Asian food stores.

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