Instructions: 1 Wash the cockles in plenty of cold water and discard any that wont close when lightly tapped. Put in a large pan with 150ml/5fl oz water. Cover and cook on a high heat, occasionally shaking the pan until opened.

2 Discard any that remain closed. Tip into a colander set on a bowl to collect the liquid and cool a little. Melt the butter in a large pan, add the bacon and cook until browning.

3 Add the leek, celery and tomatoes and cook until the mix begins to flop. Remove the cockle meats from the shells. Pour all but the last tbsp or two of cockle liquor into the pan.

4 Add the rest of the water and the potatoes and leave to simmer for 10 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Add the shelled cockles and taste the soup for seasoning. Whisk the lemon juice with the eggs in a bowl.

5 Pour on a ladle full of hot soup, whisk together and stir the liaison into the soup. Stir over a low heat to thicken slightly but dont boil. Stir in the parsley and serve.

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