Instructions: Laotian and Thai dessert tamales. Rebecca has adapted this recipe from traditional Laotian and Thai dessert techniques. In countries where ovens are scarce, these dumplings are served like cakes are in Western countries.

PANTRY: Frozen banana leaves are available in markets with a Central or South American clientele. For convenience, Rebecca keeps a packet of banana leaves in the freezer and thaws them just before use. Parchment paper can be used instead of banana leaves, but the flavor will be less interesting. Cut six 8- x 6-inch pieces and six 8-inch lengths of butchers twine. Proceed as with banana leaves.

MILK (dairy) can be substituted for coconut milk. "It is not as good but still tasty." -Rebecca

You could substitute Chidori Mai or sushi rice; adjust sugar to taste.

1. Combine the coconut milk, sugar, and ginger in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to 1/2 cup. Remove from the heat and discard the ginger. Pour the hot liquid over the rice. Stir in the orange zest and nutmeg. Let stand for 15 minutes.

2. Cut the banana leaves into six 8- x 6-inch pieces. Pass each piece over a flame to soften it. Also cut six 8 x 1/4-inch strips to use as ties.

Peel and slice the banana crosswise in half. Slice each half lengthwise into quarters. Put 2 scant tablespoons of rice on each leaf. Top with a banana slice. Put another tablespoon of rice on top of the banana. Tightly wrap each packet by folding in the long ends and then folding over the short ends. Eat the 2 extra pieces of banana.

Place the packets on a steamer rack over boiling water and steam over medium-high heat for 20 minutes, replenishing the water if necessary.

Remove from the steamer and serve warm, allowing guests to unwrap their own dessert packets.

VARIATIONS: For a quick dessert, skip the wrapping. Add the rice and seasonings to the hot milk and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching. Remove from the heat. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes. Serve on fresh mango or papaya slices or in a parfait dish with chopped fruit.

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