Instructions: The flavor of this traditional "noreaster" chowder comes mostly from the savory fish stock.

Saute salt pork over low heat in large saucepan, stirring, about 3 minutes, or until fat renders and pork browns. Add onions, butter and thyme and saute stirring, 3 to 4 minutes, or until onions are soft.

Add flour and saute, stirring, 1 minutes. Add potatoes, Fish Stock and bay leaves. SIMMER 15 to 20 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Remove bay leaves. Add cod and milk. SIMMER 8 to 10 minutes, or until fish is cooked through. Season with salt and pepper.

Makes 4 servings

FISH STOCK: Combine water, fish bones, wine, onion, celery, peppercorns, garlic, mushroom stems and bouquet garni in large stockpot. (Water should just cover bones). Bring almost to boil. Reduce heat and SIMMER, uncovered, 30 minutes. Skim foam from surface. Strain stock and discard solids. Freeze leftovers.

Makes about 5 cups.

NOTE: My grocery store sells fish and they fillet many kinds. It is usually a free thing for them to save a bag of bones. It is possible to use any of the following: halibut, bass, tilefish, flounder, salmon, snapper, redfish, cusk and hake. Freshwater fish that make acceptable substitutes include walleyed pike and perch. If you receive more bones than needed, wrap in plastic bags and freeze the bones until the next batch of stock is made.

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