Instructions: Pit the fruit, cutting larger fruit into quarters (pit cherries over a bowl to catch juices and add them to the pot). Remove 1/2 cup fruit, chop and reserve for garnish, tossing with a little lemon juice. Refrigerate in a covered container.

Combine the remaining fruit and the water in a nonreactive pan. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the fruit is very soft, 15 to 25 minutes, depending on fruit.

Cool slightly, then pass through a food mill or puree in a blender or processor. Return to the pan; add the sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon zest. Bring to a near boil; reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 8 minutes. Remove the whole spices and lemon zest.

Dissolve the arrowroot or cornstarch in a little cold water. Add to the simmering soup and cook, stirring, until the soup is clear and lightly thickened.

Add the wine and return to a simmer for 2 minutes; do not let the soup boil.

Remove from heat and add the optional almond extract and lemon juice to taste. Add more sugar, if desired.

Transfer the soup to a covered container and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight. Taste for sweetness and acidity, adding more sugar and/or lemon juice if desired. Stir in the reserved chopped fruit.

Serve in small bowls or large cups, swirling about 1 tablespoon creme fraiche or sour cream into each serving just until streaked.

This recipe yields 6 to 8 servings.

Comments: In Germany and Austria, this soup is most commonly made with cherries, preferably a mixture of sweet and sour cherries, but apricots, peaches and plums also work well.

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