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ITS AUGUST. Nectarines are nearing their peak. Ready, set: gorge. "Too
Instructions:
Instructions: I grew up eating nectarines in Mississippi, but they didnt fully reveal themselves until I was a young chef in California. While working in Napa Valley, my boss came to me and said, "here try this, you wont believe the taste."

I ate three in row.

The nectarines looked like the ones my family used for homemade ice cream, but this fresh-from-the-tree fruit was something special. Then I tried what I had never seen or tasted before: a white nectarine. Its flawless pink skin and pearly white center made me a little dizzy.

Nectarines are actually smooth-skinned peaches. Being from the rose family, along with cherries and apricots, these two fruits are one and the same, except for the fuzz. They are so connected, at times a peach tree will actually grow a branch of nectarines, and nectarine trees have been known to grow peaches.

The season for nectarines normally begins in May, although in the last few years I have not seen great fruit until late June or early July. This year I still have not tasted the drop-dead white nectarines that I lust after every summer.

One dish that always shows up on my summer menu is grilled nectarines and prosciutto.

I consider myself very lucky to be living in an area so rich with local farms. The places I go to get dizzy-good nectarines are the weekly farmers markets. That is what I like most about living in California: incredible local ingredients and hard-working farmers.

The first step to grilling nectarines is picking fruit that is ripe, yet not overripe. This can be a little tricky. I always make sure they have a flowery aroma and that the fruit is firm but not rock hard. It should yield only slightly to gentle pressure.

When I get the nectarines home, I slice them in half, cutting around the pits to release the flesh. After discarding the pits, I lightly coat each half with a spicy green olive oil, kosher salt and ground black pepper. Then I place the nectarines in the center of a very hot grill, flesh side down to get those lovely grill marks. I then pull them down to a corner of the grill, where the heat is less intense and let them gently warm through so that they are soft and juicy.

I like to use Parma prosciutto, arguably the worlds best. It is produced according to specific guidelines and is the most expensive along with San Daniele, which is also a favorite of mine. Slicing prosciutto thin is very important to this dish. It must be paper thin. Big, thick slices are nearly inedible because prosciutto is so chewy. And its such a rich meat, its better served delicately. So I slice the meat either on a meat slicer, which is the optimum way (your local butcher would be willing to do this for you), or I use a very sharp slicing knife. Place a slice on your hand; if you can see through it, it is perfect.

To plate the nectarines, I place them flesh side up on a plate and drape two generous slices of prosciutto on top. Then I garnish it with shaved parmesan and take my plate out on the patio where I pour a chilled glass of pinot grigio - a light, fruity Italian wine that contrasts the smokiness of the grilled fruit.

Now I am going to have too much of a good thing and enjoy every minute of it.

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