Instructions: Hundreds of years ago, along the western coast of South America, the Incas were using lime juice to "cook" raw, fresh seafood from the bountiful Pacific. Today, this dish is still served throughout Latin America and the Caribbean. It is called seviche.

Seviche (pronounced "se-VEE-chay"; also spelled "ceviche")

has changed very little over the centuries. And why should it? It is simply lime-marinated, raw seafood or shellfish, to which chili peppers and some spices are often added. It is what the lime juice does to the seafood that makes seviche much more than a Latin sushi, though.

When fish is cooked over heat, the flesh coagulates, or firms up, giving it the texture we recognize as cooked fish. The acid in citrus fruits - such as oranges, but especially limes and lemons - has the same effect on the fish. The result is a firm fillet that bears no texture or taste resemblance to raw fish.

Any seafood is fair game in seviche. Although all kinds of ocean fish are used (pompano, snapper, sole), shellfish (especially shrimp, squid, clams, oysters, and scallops) are becoming increasingly popular. Freshwater fish are not traditionally used for seviche, possibly due to potential health risks (such as tapeworm) that are not rendered harmless by the curing of the lime juice.

Other raw fish preparations, including sushi, do not use freshwater fish for this reason.

The appeal of seviche is great. Besides being delicious, it is amazingly easy to prepare: anyone who can dunk shellfish and raw, diced fish into lime juice, can do it. Although it is not a rapid process (the fish needs to sit in the juice for a good four hours or so), it is almost impossible to

"overcook" it. The seviche can marinate for up to two days. And with nothing but fresh fish, citrus, and an optional array of fruits and spices, it is an extremely nutritious dish.

Seviches origins may be in Peru, where it was a favorite in the Inca civilization (1200-1600 AD), though it probably dates further back than that.

Besides adding terrific flavor to seafood, this cool method of cooking was certainly popular in the tropical climate near the equator.

The so-called "New Florida Cuisine," a large part of which relies on Latin influences, finds a lot of different ways to use seviche (and limes for that matter, when you factor in margaritas, salsas, and key lime pie.) Chef Norman Van Aken of Normans restaurant in Coral Gables mixes Peruvian influences: a scallop seviche with Peruvian purple potatoes. Allen Susser, of Chef Allens in Miami Beach, adds such Mediterranean touches as fresh arugula to his conch seviche with shaved mango.

As with sushi, it is important that any seafood used in seviche be as fresh as possible, and that the fish be skinless. The ratio of fish-to-vegetable ingredients is up to the chef, and can vary from spicy to hot. Tomatoes, roasted chilies, red onions, cilantro, bell peppers, plantains, and ginger root are just a few popular options. Some chefs bend the rules a little and heat the fish or shellfish briefly on a grill before serving, adding a touch of warmth.

Even if you cheat with heat, seviche is a cool meal idea, in Florida and everywhere else.

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