Instructions: Roast and peel green chiles as described in sidebar. Set aside.

To prepare chowder: Heat oil and butter in large, heavy saucepan over medium. Stir in onion, and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. In blender, puree 1 cup corn with 1 cup milk. Pour mixture into pan and add remaining milk with remaining corn, potato and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt.

Reduce heat to medium-low and cook 15 to 20 minutes, or until potato is tender. Adjust heat, if necessary, to keep soup from boiling. Stir in cream and heat through. Add more salt, if desired, and pepper. Ladle into shallow bowls. Top with green chiles. Scatter pepitas over soup, if using. Serve hot.

This recipe yields 8 servings.

Wine Suggestions: Corn plus potatoes plus smoked peppers plus dairy equals a Chardonnay every time. With the chowder and the blue cornmeal muffins, select a full-bodied and oaky Chardonnay.

Comments: Save the last of summers ears of sweet corn in your freezer to make a version of this chowder for Thanksgiving Day. Any corn on the cob will work, but the Silver Queen variety is favored.

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