Instructions: Place a 10- by 15-inch nonstick pan in a 500 degree oven until pan is hot, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, on a plate mix cornmeal, paprika, pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

In a shallow bowl, beat egg white and milk to blend.

Rinse fish fillets, pat dry, and cut into serving-size pieces.

Coat fish with egg white mixture, then cornmeal mixture. Set aside in a single layer.

When pan is hot, mist lightly with cooking oil spray. Quickly arrange fish pieces well apart in pan. Bake until fish is browned on bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn over and continue baking until fish is golden on top and opaque but still moist-looking in thickest part (cut to test), 2 to 3 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, mix mayonnaise, pickle relish, onion, and vinegar to make tartar sauce.

With a wide spatula, transfer fish to plates; add salt to taste. Serve with tartar sauce and hot sauce.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: "I come from the South. We ate a lot of catfish, hush puppies, coleslaw, and Tabasco sauce," says the author of Exotic Herbs, Carole Saville, who now resides in Northern California. "The fish wasnt farmed; it was from local waters. Today catfish tastes like the meal they feed it. I like orange roughy, cod, salmon, and halibut these days."

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