Instructions: Ever since 1885, Green Mrs. A. B. Marshall published her best-selling The Book of Ices, home cooks had abundant recipes for custard ice creams. The richer ones gained their thickness from cream and egg yolks; the more common ones were thickened with corn starch or arrowroot. This version, with some eggs and corn starch, is midway between Mrs. Marshalls

"common"and "cheap" recipes. The evaporated milk, available canned though rarely used today, is a more modern element

Combine the scalded milk, sugar, corn starch, and salt; cook a few minutes.

Beat the yolks of the eggs; add a bit of the milk-sugar mixture and stir; then add the beaten yolks to the milk-sugar mixture; continue cooking a few minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and cool; add the vanilla and stiffly-beaten egg whites; stir; chill. Cook, cool, and whip the evaporated milk; add it to the other mixture; stir well. Freeze, stirring often to prevent it from becoming icy.

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