Instructions: Dough: Combine all of the ingredients to make a smooth, supple dough, using your electric mixer, bread machine or hands. The dough will be a bit on the soft side, but should not be sticky. Transfer it to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let it rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Or, let it complete its dough cycle in the bread machine. Prepare the filling while the dough is rising.

Deflate the dough gently and let it rest for several minutes. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out to a scant 14-inch round. If the dough resists you, cover it for a few minutes and return to find it more relaxed. Its important to roll the dough this thin because otherwise the crust will be too thick and "bready."

Preheat the oven to 400F. Transfer the rolled-out dough to a cornmeal-sprinkled, perforated bakers disk or upside-down pizza pan. Spread one of the following two fillings over the center of the dough (see specific directions as follows), being sure to leave a 1 1/2 to 2-inch border. Fold the untopped border of the dough towards the middle to partially cover the topping, arranging the folds as neatly or haphazardly in pleats or crimps as you wish.

Bake the galette for 20 to 25 minutes (on a baking stone, if possible), or until the filling is hot and the crust is golden. Let cool for a few minutes before cutting and serving, warm or cold.

Yield: dough for one galette.

For the Creamy Mushroom and Leek Filling: Saute the mushrooms, leeks and potatoes separately in olive oil, until softened but not mushy. Set each ingredient aside to cool.

Combine the mushrooms and leeks with the cheese and black pepper in a small bowl. Cut the potato rounds in half and arrange them over the rolled-out dough in as flat a layer as possible. Sprinkle the minced garlic evenly over the potatoes. Spread the mushroom filling over the top and garnish with the red onion rings. Finish as directed above. Sprinkle the fresh chives over the top just before serving.

Yield: filling for one galette, 6 servings

For the Savory Spinach and Tomato Filling: Combine the spinach, sauteed onion, oil, ricotta, 1/2 cup Parmesan, chopped plum tomato, basil, garlic and pepper in a medium bowl and mix well. Spread this filling onto the rolled-out dough. Top with the crumbled feta.

Arrange the sliced tomatoes in circles or other decorative patterns over the feta and sprinkle on the remaining 1/4 cup grated Parmesan. Finish as directed above.

Yield: filling for one galette, 8 servings

NOTES : Once youve seen one, youll want to make your own, which is exactly what weve set out to do here. These elegant, free-form meals in a pouch most closely resemble open-faced calzones, but since their appearance is really more refined, each shall go by the name of galette, the French word that encompasses tarts of all types.

Portable enough for a picnic basket and classy enough for a dinner party or backyard hors doeuvres fest, these stuffed summer yeast breads are equal parts delicious and colorful, satisfying and hearty. The filling is voluminous and the bread a tender envelope, so be careful when moving the unbaked creation (unless leaks dont bother you).

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