Instructions: Separate the tail from the shrimp and remove the meat, reserving all shells, claws, heads and so forth. If you wish, devein the tails, then cover and refrigerate. Coarsely chop the heads and shells, reserving 4 heads for decoration, if you have them.

In a large saucepan, heat the oil over moderate heat, then add the shrimp shells and cook them. Stir slowly but continuously for 5 minutes. Add the vegetables and tomato puree and cook another 5 minutes, stirring.

Add the wine and bring to the boil for 30 seconds, scraping the bottom to dissolve any coagulated juices. Add the water, bouillon cube, saffron and herb bouquet. Return to a simmer and cook, covered, for 1 hour.

Pour the stock through a fine strainer into a bowl, pressing down on the vegetables and shrimp shells with a soup ladle to extract all of the liquid. (For a finer result, strain again through cheesecloth.)

Return the stock to the boil. Moisten the cornstarch in a little cold water, then add it to the saucepan and boil for 4 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper. (The recipe can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated.)

Bring the stock to a simmer. Add the shrimp tails and let them cook a bare 2 minutes (for small or medium), or 3 minutes for extra-large. Remove immediately with a slotted spoon and divide them among 4 heated soup plates.

Pour the stock into a blender, add the powdered milk and cognac. Blend until smooth and homogeneous. Pour immediately into the soup plates over the shrimp tails. Garnish each dish with an equal amount of the herbs and a shrimp head (optional).

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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